Arête à Maurice

Grade
3 à 6b
Approach time
1 h 45 à 2 h 15 depuis Courchevel 1650
Routes
2

Topo

Diagram: Arête à Maurice
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Routes of Arête à Maurice
No.RouteGradeHeightPitches
1Les Cinq Tours5c4
2Golden Friends6b

Access

From Courchevel Moriond via the Biol alpine pasture and the vallon des Avals, or from Pralognan via the col des Saulces: see the «Access and approach» page on the site.

Landmarks noted on the diagrams: col des Saulces 1hr30, le Biol (vallon des Avals) 1hr.

A ridge broken into limestone towers, from the Bec to the aiguille des Deux Pintades, beneath the north pillar of the aiguille de Mey. Two routes are described here:

  • Les Cinq Tours : the traverse of the ridge, up to grade 5c, with 5+ obligatory.
  • Golden Friends : a crack route, 5+ to 6b, with 6b obligatory.

Routes

  1. Ridge or traverse

    Pitches
    4
    Obligatory grade
    5+

    From the Bec to the aiguille des Deux Pintades, the traverse links the Gendarme, the Tour penchée, the aiguille Crynoline, the Doigt de Portetta and the aiguille Fanch. You move from one…

    Read the route details
  2. Trad

    Obligatory grade
    6b
    Protection
    Unbolted, bring protection

    A crack climb, 5+ to 6b, protected with friends: bring the full set listed.

    Read the route details

Photos

Arête à Maurice 1Arête à Maurice 2Arête à Maurice 3